Two jobs: the appliance and the water damage
When an appliance leaks, two kinds of work usually follow.
- Fixing the source. A plumber handles a water heater or supply line, an appliance technician handles a washer, dishwasher or refrigerator, and an HVAC technician handles an AC drain or pan.
- Cleaning up the water damage. Wet flooring, cabinet bases, drywall, ceilings and insulation need to be dried or removed. That’s what an independent restoration provider does.
This page covers the second job. Drying a floor while the tank keeps dripping won’t work, so the repair has to happen too.
What to do first
- Stop the water at the appliance. Washers, dishwashers, refrigerators and toilets usually have a supply valve behind or under them. A water heater has a valve on the cold water line where water enters the tank. If a valve won’t close, use the main shut-off. Our shut-off valve guide shows where it usually is.
- Stay clear of wet electrical. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission warns not to touch wet appliances that are still plugged in. Only switch off a breaker if you can reach the panel from a dry spot.
- Shut down a leaking water heater. Turn off the breaker for an electric heater, or turn the gas control to off, following the label on the tank. The water may be hot.
- Take photos and video of the appliance, the leak point and every wet area. Keep the failed hose or part until your insurer has seen it. Our insurance guide explains how claims usually work.
- Move boxes, rugs and stored items out of the water.
Water heaters and Valley hard water
The City of Phoenix’s 2025 water quality report lists total hardness of 10 to 17.6 grains per gallon and says hard water “can cause some types of scaling in pipes and water heaters.” Those minerals settle as sediment in the tank. The City of Scottsdale’s water heater guide names overheating from sediment build-up as a main cause of failure. Where mineral content is high, it recommends draining at least 5 gallons from the drain valve every six months, and warns that the common plastic drain valves can break.
ENERGY STAR puts the typical life of a storage water heater at about 13 years and suggests considering a replacement once it’s more than 10 years old. Its warning signs:
- Leaks from joints, seals or seams
- Visible corrosion, or rust in the water
- Less hot water than before, caused by sediment
- Rumbling noises, also from sediment
ENERGY STAR notes that waiting too long risks “tank rupture and water damage to the floor and carpets.”
Garage heaters. Scottsdale’s guide says a garage water heater must be raised so the pilot, burners or heating element sit at least 18 inches above the floor. A garage leak can still spread across the slab, into stored boxes and into the base of a wall shared with the house.
The relief valve. Every tank has a temperature and pressure relief valve. The City of Phoenix’s housing inspection standards say its discharge line must run continuously downward and end outside. Water coming out of that line means the valve opened or is leaking, so have a plumber find out why.
Washers, dishwashers and refrigerator lines
- Washing machines. Supply hoses stay under pressure, so a split hose can run until someone notices. A drain hose that slips out of the standpipe can flood the floor mid-cycle.
- Dishwashers. Leaks from the supply line, drain connection or door seal tend to run under the unit and into cabinet bases, out of sight.
- Refrigerators. Ice maker lines are thin and easy to kink or crack when the fridge is pulled out. A slow drip can soak the floor and the bottom of the wall for weeks.
Supply lines under sinks and toilets, and pipes inside walls, are covered on the burst pipe water damage page.
AC condensate drains and pans
Air conditioners pull moisture from indoor air and send it out through a condensate drain. ENERGY STAR warns that “a plugged drain can cause water damage in the house and affect indoor humidity levels.”
The Department of Energy’s Building America Solution Center notes that when equipment sits in an attic or closet, clogged drain lines and overflowing pans “can go undetected long enough to cause severe water damage.” It recommends a corrosion-resistant secondary pan with a water-level switch that shuts the system off if the pan fills, and notes that older galvanized steel pans can corrode.
Watch for a ceiling stain below an attic air handler, water on the floor of an AC closet, or a system that suddenly stops running, which can mean an overflow switch tripped.
Evaporative coolers
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension notes that evaporative coolers usually sit on the roof, sometimes on an outside wall. The university’s Water Wise program says to make sure the float valve works, because “if the valve sticks, the water will run continuously.” Water in the tray should sit about an inch below the rim and below the overflow pipe’s opening. Check the casing for split seams and the tray for rust, either of which can leak.
What the cleanup involves
Finding the edges. The provider uses moisture meters, and often a thermal camera, to map where the water went. Water from a dishwasher or refrigerator can travel under cabinets into the next room.
Ceilings and insulation. When an attic air handler overflows, water lands on insulation and ceiling drywall. The EPA’s guidance for clean-water damage is to discard and replace wet fiberglass or cellulose insulation. Drywall may be dried in place if it isn’t obviously swollen and the seams are intact.
Drying. Air movers and dehumidifiers run until each material reaches its dry target, with readings taken daily. See structural drying.
Checking for mold. The EPA advises drying water-damaged materials within 24 to 48 hours to prevent mold growth. A slow drip behind a fridge may have run for weeks, so the backs of cabinets and bottoms of walls deserve a close look. See mold remediation.
Working around the repair. The old appliance may have to come out before the area behind it can dry, so tell everyone involved who is doing what, and in what order.